Expanding Shoals in Areas of Wave Refraction

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Science  14 Oct 1960:
Vol. 132, Issue 3433, pp. 1012-1013
DOI: 10.1126/science.132.3433.1012


Shoals and spits may grow seaward, despite powerful refracted wave attack, where the wave energy level is too low to handle the supply of sand introduced by the littoral drift. Spits and shoals of this type have distinctive shapes. They may support ripple marks which do not parallel the crests of the waves which form them.